In Perito Moreno I met Giacomo, a backpacker and poet from Tuscany and together we spent a few hours walking around the deserted town centre, talking about our trips and many more things and laughing while killing time during our four hours wait in the bus station.
The buses were taking us through the legendary Ruta 40, making this famous and bumpy road trip seem like a touristic excursion....from our comfortable seats we could admire the never-ending Patagonian steppes being only interrupted by colourful rocks and the sight of the mountains in the distance, for thousands of kilometres nothing around us.
The view of the sun setting in this type of landscape was something I was not prepared for, the colour of the clouds changing from white to pink, passing through orange and almost looking like flames in the sky and the reflection of this masterpiece painted above our heads on the rocky mountains in the horizon were the deserved rewards for our 30 hours long sacrifice.
I also met Edwin, a young traveller with a Didgeridoo from Colombia and Cama, a nice and smiley girl from the States and together with Giacomo we bought some wine and shared a few jokes after stopping at Bajo Caracoles, a small town in the middle of nowhere where we had a short break and watched the Argentinian national team playing on tv.
We all slept comfortably as many of the seats were empty, only to wake up at 6am in El Chalten were Cama, Edwin and I got off and split from our poetic travel companion Giacomo who was continuing the bus ride to El Calafate. It was still really dark and cold and I was still half a sleep when I saw a heavily clothed figure I thought I recognized: it was Claudia (my friend from Parque Nacional los Alerces and Esquel), for the third and last time we met along our journeys, but she was leaving after two days of miserable weather in which she did not enjoy this beautiful place.
El Chalten is a small village located in a very privileged location, at the feet of two of the world's most picturesque peaks, the Cerro Torre and the Fitz Roy, a paradise for climbers who every year fill up the campsites and hostels waiting for the perfect day to attempt the long waited climbs. The tourism, this village appeal to climbers and mountaineers and the paved road which now connects it to the bigger and far more touristic town of El Calafate have increased its ever growing population and made it a big building site in the last few years as hotels and hostels are being built here to keep up with the large demand for accommodation.
My timing was perfect, as the autumn colours were just giving the mountains a magical atmosphere, the red and yellow leaves mixing with the dark green trees were the base for the snow to complete the postcard like view.
After resting on the first day (I only visited a nearby waterfall), Cama and I left at 7.30 in the morning as the sun was rising to do our first hike in the nearby mountains, we arrived at the viewpoint of Glacier Piedras Blancas after about three hours walking and then went off path (and crossed the freezing river bare footed) to get closer to this impressive glacier hanging down from the mountain to form a small lake of a grey icy colour, surrounded by giant white granite stones which probably rolled down a mountain hundreds of years ago.
After resting on the first day (I only visited a nearby waterfall), Cama and I left at 7.30 in the morning as the sun was rising to do our first hike in the nearby mountains, we arrived at the viewpoint of Glacier Piedras Blancas after about three hours walking and then went off path (and crossed the freezing river bare footed) to get closer to this impressive glacier hanging down from the mountain to form a small lake of a grey icy colour, surrounded by giant white granite stones which probably rolled down a mountain hundreds of years ago.
We then walked on the riverside to arrive at the path which would have taken us to the Laguna de los Tres, the viewpoint from which the three Fitz Roy peaks could be seen while standing on the shore of the lagoon created by its glaciers. After a very steep last bit we arrived to admire the fantastic giant peaks surrounded by clouds as we were walking in the snow, the cold wind was really making it difficult to stand still and look up, but as we got closer to the nearest viewpoint the clouds seemed to open up slightly to award us for our effort, letting us see the three peaks in their entireness.
As we finally managed to reach the highest point, the view of Laguna Sucia (dirty lagoon) below us was just a jaw-dropping surprise, the green colour of its freezing water in this landscape covered in snow was just so eye-catching that even though I was walking keeping my head up, my eyes pointing to the mountains I could not avoid turning towards it and with my mouth open remain speechless at the sight of this perfectly still mirror of green water reflecting the snowy mountains above.
As we finally managed to reach the highest point, the view of Laguna Sucia (dirty lagoon) below us was just a jaw-dropping surprise, the green colour of its freezing water in this landscape covered in snow was just so eye-catching that even though I was walking keeping my head up, my eyes pointing to the mountains I could not avoid turning towards it and with my mouth open remain speechless at the sight of this perfectly still mirror of green water reflecting the snowy mountains above.
After a rest on the way back, Cama and I went back to the hostel for a deserved hot shower and a cup of tea after our 10 hours hike.....
The next day Edwin and I left at 7.30 in the morning, took a few pictures of the Fitz Roy at sunrise from our hostel and started our hike up to Laguna Torre, the beautiful lagoon formed by the glaciers of the Cerro Torre. It was a very sunny day and the sky was perfectly clear, not a single cloud between us and the sight of the fantastic scenery, after walking for about four hours through the forest watching the woodpeckers and taking hundreds of pictures we reached the lagoon and sat down to have a snack as we admired this perfect view in silence before walking up another path on the side of the lagoon to get closer to the glacier.
For the second day in a row I had an incredible feeling, walking up the mountains for hours and be rewarded by the sight of these breathtaking mountains with their lakes, glaciers and the colours of all trees and plants around us was just amazing, something very similar to what I felt a few times before on this trip when cycling up a hill and being able to admire the landscape below, realizing my achievements and just enjoying the reward.
The next day Edwin and I left at 7.30 in the morning, took a few pictures of the Fitz Roy at sunrise from our hostel and started our hike up to Laguna Torre, the beautiful lagoon formed by the glaciers of the Cerro Torre. It was a very sunny day and the sky was perfectly clear, not a single cloud between us and the sight of the fantastic scenery, after walking for about four hours through the forest watching the woodpeckers and taking hundreds of pictures we reached the lagoon and sat down to have a snack as we admired this perfect view in silence before walking up another path on the side of the lagoon to get closer to the glacier.
For the second day in a row I had an incredible feeling, walking up the mountains for hours and be rewarded by the sight of these breathtaking mountains with their lakes, glaciers and the colours of all trees and plants around us was just amazing, something very similar to what I felt a few times before on this trip when cycling up a hill and being able to admire the landscape below, realizing my achievements and just enjoying the reward.
In the hostel I met Maxi, a climber from Comodoro Rivadavia who was living in the hostel with his mother Irma waiting to find a house to rent or buy in the village and maybe one day start his own business in his beloved new home town, on my fourth day I stayed in the hostel to rest eating Irma's very italian pasta with Bolognese sauce and went with Maxi and Edwin to watch them climbing and take lots of pictures.
The hostel had a really nice atmosphere, probably due to the laid-back and relaxed attitude of Maxi and Antonio, the two guys from Tandil who are managing it making all visitors feel very welcome and helping them with plenty of informations and suggestions about the surroundings of El Chalten, its walks and its activities.
I also met Judith again, a lovely lady from London who I met before while staying in Trevelin and she introduced me to Ben, a french backpacker who was travelling with her from Chile and together with other guys and girls in the hostel we had a very entertaining last night in El Chalten, before Ben, Edwin and I left for El Calafate.
On my fifth day I walked through the fields for a couple of hours to reach the nearby Lago Viedma and went on a boat trip to see the Glacier Viedma (the biggest by size in Argentina) close up, after about 45 minutes of navigation we reached the front of this impressive giant, took a few pictures in the freezing wind and rain as we could hear the ice cracking and a few small bits falling in the water before going back to the port.
On my last day I decided I had to complete my perfect staying in El Chalten and visit the last attraction in the area, Lago del Desierto is 37 km from the village, making it an impossible destination for a one day hike unless one wants to pay the expensive bus transfer or like I did, hitch-hike there. After five minutes I was sitting down on the side of the only unpaved road that leads to the lake, a pick-up van stopped and a young guy who was working at an estancia near the lake gave me a lift, it was a very cloudy day and after an hour and half drive on the bumpy and flooded road I arrived at my destination, and walked up the path through the thick forest for about an hour arriving at the viewpoint of the Glacier Huemul around 10am. I was the only one there, I had this place all to myself: the impressive hanging glacier with its white and blue shaded ice sliding down into the colourful lagoon, surrounded by trees and plants of a bright yellow and red colour, I sat down on a rock and watched in silence the nature in its stunning beauty.
After all night partying with lots of friends from the hostel, I left at 6am without sleeping and took the bus to El Calafate as it was still dark, after a three hours sleep on the comfortable and empty seats I arrived in this touristic town, a much bigger and more developed centre thanks to its vicinity to one of Argentina's top touristic destination, Glacier Perito Moreno.
I met Ben and together with three Australian girls we rented a car and left at 6.30 in the morning to avoid being charged the expensive entrance fee to the Parque Nacional, as almost all young visitors do here....we arrived as the sun was just rising and the sight of this giant made of ice was something I can't describe !!!
It was cloudy and cold and it started raining, but that did not stop us from staying in front of the glacier's five kilometres wide and 50 metres high wall of ice waiting for big chunks of it to crack and crash into the water, after a quick break in the warm coffee shop we went back outside to witness the show: a huge piece of ice the size of a big truck came down, producing a crashing noise and a big splash of water as it hit the freezing water below, tens of tourists were screaming and cheering as we got finally rewarded after hours of rain and cold.....
We were all staying in a cheap hostel in the town centre where we met some lovely people and had dinner together thanks to the fantastic host, the manager Eduardo who organized to collect money and cook a fantastic lamb roast to share between ten of us, the following night we all gathered to sing and play some music with two friendly musicians and backpackers from Holland.
On my last day Ben and I went for a walk at sunset to visit a nearby lake where Flamingos and other birds could be seen, it was my last chance to watch the Patagonian skies as the sun painted the clouds in pink, orange and flaming red......
The hostel had a really nice atmosphere, probably due to the laid-back and relaxed attitude of Maxi and Antonio, the two guys from Tandil who are managing it making all visitors feel very welcome and helping them with plenty of informations and suggestions about the surroundings of El Chalten, its walks and its activities.
I also met Judith again, a lovely lady from London who I met before while staying in Trevelin and she introduced me to Ben, a french backpacker who was travelling with her from Chile and together with other guys and girls in the hostel we had a very entertaining last night in El Chalten, before Ben, Edwin and I left for El Calafate.
On my fifth day I walked through the fields for a couple of hours to reach the nearby Lago Viedma and went on a boat trip to see the Glacier Viedma (the biggest by size in Argentina) close up, after about 45 minutes of navigation we reached the front of this impressive giant, took a few pictures in the freezing wind and rain as we could hear the ice cracking and a few small bits falling in the water before going back to the port.
On my last day I decided I had to complete my perfect staying in El Chalten and visit the last attraction in the area, Lago del Desierto is 37 km from the village, making it an impossible destination for a one day hike unless one wants to pay the expensive bus transfer or like I did, hitch-hike there. After five minutes I was sitting down on the side of the only unpaved road that leads to the lake, a pick-up van stopped and a young guy who was working at an estancia near the lake gave me a lift, it was a very cloudy day and after an hour and half drive on the bumpy and flooded road I arrived at my destination, and walked up the path through the thick forest for about an hour arriving at the viewpoint of the Glacier Huemul around 10am. I was the only one there, I had this place all to myself: the impressive hanging glacier with its white and blue shaded ice sliding down into the colourful lagoon, surrounded by trees and plants of a bright yellow and red colour, I sat down on a rock and watched in silence the nature in its stunning beauty.
After all night partying with lots of friends from the hostel, I left at 6am without sleeping and took the bus to El Calafate as it was still dark, after a three hours sleep on the comfortable and empty seats I arrived in this touristic town, a much bigger and more developed centre thanks to its vicinity to one of Argentina's top touristic destination, Glacier Perito Moreno.
I met Ben and together with three Australian girls we rented a car and left at 6.30 in the morning to avoid being charged the expensive entrance fee to the Parque Nacional, as almost all young visitors do here....we arrived as the sun was just rising and the sight of this giant made of ice was something I can't describe !!!
It was cloudy and cold and it started raining, but that did not stop us from staying in front of the glacier's five kilometres wide and 50 metres high wall of ice waiting for big chunks of it to crack and crash into the water, after a quick break in the warm coffee shop we went back outside to witness the show: a huge piece of ice the size of a big truck came down, producing a crashing noise and a big splash of water as it hit the freezing water below, tens of tourists were screaming and cheering as we got finally rewarded after hours of rain and cold.....
We were all staying in a cheap hostel in the town centre where we met some lovely people and had dinner together thanks to the fantastic host, the manager Eduardo who organized to collect money and cook a fantastic lamb roast to share between ten of us, the following night we all gathered to sing and play some music with two friendly musicians and backpackers from Holland.
On my last day Ben and I went for a walk at sunset to visit a nearby lake where Flamingos and other birds could be seen, it was my last chance to watch the Patagonian skies as the sun painted the clouds in pink, orange and flaming red......
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